The origin of “pulperías” dates back to the mid sixteenth century. These establishments provided people with an assortment of goods necessary for everyday life: food, beverages, candles, charcoal and medicine, among other goods of vital importance for everyday life. The “pulperías” were the meeting place of both middle and working class people; representatives from different regions gathered here to talk and get acquainted with the latest news. At these “taverns”, people used to meet in order to drink liquor, play dice and card games.
These social meeting places were the true expression of local culture and “rioplatense” (or River Plate) folklore. Usually, “pulperías” provided gauchos with guitars so that they could “guitarrear” – or play the guitar – sing, recite “payadas” – or ritualized, rhymed verses – while locals danced to the music. The importance of “pulperías” is clearly depicted in one of the well known stanzas from the “gauchesco” narrative poem “El Gaucho Martín Fierro,” written by José Hernández back in 1872:
¡Ah, pulpero habilidoso! Nada le solía faltar. ¡Ahijuna!, Para tragar tenía un buche de ñandú; la gente le dio en llamar el boliche de virtú.
(¡Ah, talented tavern-keeper! He used to be well-provided with ¡Alas! To swallow he had an ostrich’s crop and people called his place the talented guy’s tavern)
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